70s, Fourrures Camp, Lambskin, Artisanal

Princess seams, double-breasted closure, and ergonomic two-piece sleeves create a sculptural hourglass contour—achieved solely through seam shaping.

The double-breasted leather trench coat, attributed to Créations Les Gets Paris and retailed through Fourrures Camp in Alès, represents a paradigmatic example of mid-20th century French outerwear that bridges regional craft and metropolitan design influence. The dual-labeling system reflects a common production model in postwar France, where Paris-based design houses collaborated with provincial ateliers to localize fabrication and distribution, especially in specialized sectors like fur and leather. These garments were not Haute Couture, yet they offered constructional sophistication and material integrity on par with bespoke standards—crafted for affluent clients seeking elegant, tactile, and climate-resilient outerwear grounded in both utility and refinement. The coat is engineered from full-grain, chrome-tanned leather—lambskin—finished in a semi-aniline treatment that preserves natural surface characteristics while offering a subtle pigment uniformity and moderate protection. Estimated at 1.2 mm in thickness, the hide balances structure and drape, critical for achieving the coat’s full-length flared silhouette without compromising mobility or garment swing. The leather exhibits gentle wrinkling, consistent pebble grain, and tonal burnishing at high-flex areas, indicating a hide selection process attentive to grain regularity and stretch behavior—a necessity in a multi-panel outerwear garment intended for long-term wear. Pattern engineering is both intricate and functionally responsive. The garment is cut on a panel-intensive block featuring full-length princess seams from shoulder to hem, reinforced by vertical side panels that enhance grain flexibility and anatomical shaping. The set-in two-piece sleeves are drafted with an ergonomically contoured outer seam for elbow articulation and terminate in tab-adjustable cuffs—self-fabric straps secured by leather-covered buttons, constructed with skived edges and stabilizing interfacing to prevent distortion. The collar features a wide notched lapel with a fully integrated stand, interfaced and pad-pressed for roll retention. The double-breasted front—cut with a 6-button, 3x2 configuration—anchors the garment’s verticality while echoing military dress tropes recontextualized within a tailored feminine framework. Seam architecture throughout is executed with high-order technical precision. All construction seams—particularly at the shoulder, princess line, and armhole—are assembled via edge-glued or abutted techniques, then hammered flat and topstitched using bonded nylon thread (Tex 70 or higher). Topstitching is consistent at 1/8” edge distance, with even spacing, minimal needle drag, and precise turn control at lapel notches and pocket flaps. The hem is skived internally and turned cleanly, maintaining swing flexibility without bulk accumulation. Internal stress zones—including shoulder seams, button plackets, and pocket anchors—are likely reinforced with cotton twill tape or fusible interlinings, though no external bartacks are visible. The buttonholes, although not captured in close detail, would be machine-punched and either bar-tack or grommet-reinforced to resist strain—particularly critical in thick hides under horizontal tension. The coat’s lining is a satin-weave polyester or acetate, chocolate brown in color, cleanly bagged and blind-stitched at the hem and neckline. This lining ensures low-friction wear, enhances breathability, and conceals internal glue and seam architecture. The lining insertion adheres to mid-century French tailoring standards, where bagging methods favored invisible seam transitions and restrained material shifts to preserve garment silhouette integrity. Structurally, the coat demonstrates full commitment to shaping through seaming rather than shortcuts like elasticized panels or fusible drape manipulation. The hourglass contour is achieved via graded panel tapering and strategic dart convergence, particularly at the waist and side body. No elastic or gather mechanisms are present—relying instead on the inherent moldability of the hide, shaped through controlled steam-forming and feed-regulated machine handling. The result is a cleanly anatomical garment with no extraneous fullness, no collapse at stress zones, and a consistent silhouette contour from shoulder to hem. The collar and lapel construction—especially the radius turn at the notch and the pad-pressed roll—demonstrates tailored discipline rarely found in contemporary leather outerwear. The sleeve-to-bodice transitions show no puckering or torque, confirming tension calibration and symmetrical armhole setting. The pocket flaps—angled and pointed—are topstitched and likely welted beneath, based on seam bulk and alignment, evidencing precise layering and structural memory across wear cycles. From a stylistic lineage perspective, the garment draws equally from military heritage and post-Dior bourgeois tailoring. The double-breasted construction, storm lapel scale, and trench-length coverage borrow heavily from WWI officer coats, while the fit-and-flare shaping and soft-grain leather reinterpret these symbols through a 1970s lens of cinematic femininity. The coat’s formal cues echo designs seen on Romy Schneider or Catherine Deneuve, with particular resonance in French cinematic wardrobes and Parisian editorials of the era. It shares design DNA with early Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche leathers, Gianfranco Ferré’s architectural outerwear, and Chapal’s high-finish trench cuts—blending military formalism with sensual tactility. Technically, this is a masterwork of leather tailoring. Its execution demonstrates not only skill but also material intelligence—balancing the hide’s natural behavior with the garment’s architectural demands. The combination of princess seam grading, panel integration, and double-breasted closure requires millimeter-level drafting and uncompromising hide handling. The topstitch alignment, edge consistency, and uniform grain behavior across panels suggest deliberate hide selection, likely from a tannery specializing in outerwear-grade lambskin, such as Tempeu or La Bretagna. The coat’s ability to age with elegance—developing patina at flex points without structural compromise—positions it as a long-term wardrobe asset rather than a seasonal commodity. In today’s market, this trench exists within the vanguard of archival outerwear. Its historical accuracy, textural integrity, and tailored clarity place it squarely within the reference vocabulary of designers such as Lemaire, Khaite, Courrèges, and Bottega Veneta—brands increasingly drawn to pre-digital silhouettes, slow material evolution, and tactile narrative. The coat is equally viable as a museum-caliber artifact, a pattern archive for reissue, or a premium resale centerpiece within curated vintage collections. Its conceptual duality—utility as aesthetic, containment as empowerment—resonates with fashion’s renewed interest in garments that signify autonomy through discipline rather than spectacle. Ultimately, this piece is not just an outerwear garment—it is an artifact of design fluency. It articulates a philosophy of clothing as structured second skin, merging body and silhouette through restraint, engineering, and material literacy. Its continued relevance is not rooted in nostalgia but in the enduring power of precision: a lesson in how construction, proportion, and feel can coalesce into a singular, inimitable garment.

Measurements (cm):
Chest: 45
Length: 100
Shoulder: 39
Sleeve: 56



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Women’s Size: S
EU Women’s Size: 36


SKU: 006082