70s, Kynoch Wool, High GSM, Brutalist Tailoring

Constructed from Scottish herringbone twill, it balances textile depth with tailored fluidity—580–620 GSM of architectural drape.

The Louisoder overcoat in question stands as a meticulously engineered artifact of European menswear, embodying a quiet but rigorous confluence of heritage textile craftsmanship and contemporary tailoring rationalism. Conceived in Munich and constructed using a pure virgin wool cloth commissioned from Kynoch of Scotland—one of the world’s oldest operational woolen mills—this garment manifests the restrained sophistication that defines Louisoder’s design ethos. The label, increasingly recognized among tailoring connoisseurs, synthesizes Southern German structural discipline with the tactile richness of Northern textile traditions, drawing heavily on the material austerity of mid-century Central European tailoring, Alpine formalwear, and industrial-era workwear pragmatism. Kynoch’s contribution is critical. Founded in 1788 in Keith, Scotland, the mill remains a cornerstone of British outerwear heritage, known for weaving rugged yet refined tweeds, worsteds, and herringbones that have served the sartorial codes of houses like Margaret Howell, Drake’s, and early Dunhill tailoring collections. The cloth selected for this coat is a fine-scale 2/2 herringbone twill—woolen-spun, subtly brushed, and rendered in dark heathered brown—offering a muted visual tactility and architectural drape. Estimated at 580–620 GSM, the wool maintains an exceptional balance of weight and pliability, enabling both thermal insulation and structural fidelity. It recalls the precision of mid-century “Mantelwolle” used in German tailoring, the tonal formality of West of England coatings, and bespoke herringbones favored by Savile Row in the 1950s–1980s. Designed as a single-breasted city overcoat for temperate to cold climates, the garment features a concealed 3-button placket, a rounded convertible collar, and a slightly flared hem, allowing for fluid stride clearance and subtle thermal ventilation. Unlike British covert coats or military-derived topcoats, this silhouette aligns more closely with 1950s–60s Continental tailoring—particularly German and French overcoats of the postwar period—with a tapering yet generous form that privileges verticality and motion over overt structure. The ergonomic raglan shoulder construction is hybridized with a yoke seam that mimics set-in sleeve definition while preserving range of motion—a technique used to mediate formality and mobility, common to heritage-informed but forward-thinking tailoring. Pattern logic is guided by architectural restraint. The coat avoids excessive darting, instead employing shaped side panels that curve forward into integrated pocket planes. This enables volume management without bulking the silhouette. The sleeves are tailored in two pieces, with a forward pitch that complements the ergonomic fall of the shoulder, and the armholes are generously drafted for layering over suiting without collapsing the shoulder line. The collar is a stand-and-fall variation, internally canvassed (not fused), ensuring roll memory and a soft vertical rise—key in communicating both warmth and intellectual authority. Construction techniques adhere to high mid-tier to entry-luxury standards. The coat is fully lined using a bagged lining method with chocolate brown satin twill, bias-cut at key points to enhance drape. The facing and collar structures are internally reinforced—likely with a combination of fusible interfacing and haircloth or canvas—though no bubbling or stiffness distortion suggests proper fusing temperature and calibration. The inner collar stand incorporates a reinforced locker loop with grommeted brass rings, an homage to vintage mountaineering and military outerwear, reinterpreted through a minimalist lens. Internal seams are bias-bound, particularly at the hem and pocket bag junctions, offering both structural reinforcement and a refined interior finish uncommon at mass-market levels. Buttonholes are precisely machine-sewn with bar-tack reinforcement at high-stress areas, and buttons are likely backed with internal stays to ensure durability under strain. The front button placket is cut on extension, not applied, contributing to visual cleanliness and technical efficiency. The set-in sleeve head is shaped with eased fullness—evidence of a well-balanced sleeve crown and armhole—resulting in clean drape without puckering, despite the density of the wool. Flat-felled seams are employed at high-tension zones such as side panels and underarms, enhancing durability while remaining visually discreet. Interior details reinforce the garment’s coherence and material philosophy. Pocket bags and facings are cut from the same Kynoch wool as the shell—an elevated touch that enhances both textile consistency and thermal function. The tartan wool used on internal pocket backing is precisely aligned, suggesting intentional design integration rather than cost-saving substitution. This layering of textures remains hidden to the external viewer but aligns with the quiet-luxury ethos: tactility, substance, and constructional honesty supplant visual flamboyance. In aesthetic terms, the coat eschews overt branding and decorative gesture in favor of material expression and silhouette discipline. It sits within the same conceptual terrain as garments by Lemaire, Auralee, or De Bonne Facture—labels that deploy luxurious materials to construct visually neutral, intellectually potent forms. There is an unmistakable Brutalist influence in its constructional logic and a Minimalist sensibility in its refusal of surface embellishment. The result is a coat that communicates authority through texture and proportion, not through signifiers. Its dark brown herringbone, with its soft nap and heathered modulation, evokes the textile art of Anni Albers or the woven experiments of Sheila Hicks—rendered not as artwork, but as daily-use architecture for the body. Historically, the garment likely dates to the late 1970s, based on its interior finishing, fabric provenance, and construction methodology. This places it within a wave of post-heritage tailoring movements in Germany and Austria, where brands such as Eduard Dressler, Strellson, and Louisoder were refining menswear via hybridized silhouettes, advanced textile sourcing, and restrained reinterpretations of prewar tailoring codes. Technically, the coat’s execution is faultless. Symmetry across lapels, collar fall, hem curve, and shoulder line is maintained with clinical precision. Stitches per inch are consistent, edge topstitching is clean and proportioned, and there is no evidence of warping or misalignment—despite the complexity of working with woolen-spun, brushed herringbone. Reinforcements are expertly placed, and the garment demonstrates a disciplined understanding of pressing, fabric memory, and structural interfacing. As a commercial object, this coat aligns with current trends in material-centric tailoring and archival revival. Its construction standards, textile sourcing, and design language position it within the upper segment of the vintage luxury market. It would be equally viable in specialist retail platforms such as Sundazed. It is not merely a coat, but a case study in restrained precision—offering a masterclass in how textile, form, and ideology can converge into an object of enduring technical and aesthetic relevance.

Measurements (cm):
Chest: 65
Length: 105
Shoulder: 50
Sleeve: 66



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: XL–XXL
EU Men’s Size: 52–54


SKU: 007001