SCHILD (Germany)

70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District

$179.00


: L
: Brown

The SCHILD pinstripe wool blazer exemplifies the precision and structure synonymous with traditional German tailoring, rooted in a heritage that prioritizes sharp lines, disciplined construction, and the enduring quality of Gledhill’s worsted wool. As a brand specializing in classic German suiting, SCHILD adheres to the rigorous standards of German craftsmanship, a lineage reflected in this blazer’s clean silhouette, impeccable stripe alignment, and refined detailing. The "Made in England" label signals an adherence to established British textile conventions, positioning the piece within the realm of structured business attire rather than contemporary, deconstructed suiting. The influence of mid-century financial district aesthetics is palpable in the fabric selection, cut, and formal yet authoritative presence of the blazer. This single-breasted, two-button blazer is a quintessential piece of corporate menswear, characterized by a tailored, moderately fitted silhouette and a vertical pinstripe pattern designed to elongate the torso. The subtle contrast between the pinstripes and the deep base tone reinforces the traditional businesswear aesthetic, ensuring versatility in professional and semi-formal settings. The wool composition, likely worsted, provides a balance between breathability and insulation, making the blazer optimal for fall and winter wear. The structured shoulder line, coupled with a slightly lower button stance, creates an elongating effect that adheres to classic German suiting proportions. The overall design maintains an equilibrium between formality and fluidity, engineered for precision and longevity. The fabric selection is particularly notable, crafted from a high-density wool featuring a finely woven pinstripe twill. This weave structure, a 2x2 twill, produces a smooth yet structured drape with fine diagonal ribbing that reinforces durability while maintaining a refined surface texture. The pinstripe itself is achieved through contrast in the warp threads, creating evenly spaced vertical lines that subtly accentuate the garment’s length. The mélange effect of the wool introduces depth, blending fine and coarse fibers for a nuanced, slightly textured hand feel. The quality and weave characteristics align closely with textiles produced by esteemed British and Italian mills such as Holland & Sherry, Fox Brothers, Vitale Barberis Canonico, and Dugdale Bros & Co., all of which specialize in high-end suiting fabrics. The interior lining, a tightly woven twill or satin-blend, is executed in an understated olive-green hue, selected for both its breathability and refined finish, likely a viscose or Bemberg composition that offers a silk-like drape. Structurally, the blazer adheres to heritage tailoring techniques that reinforce durability and precise shaping. The notched lapel, measuring approximately 7.5–8 cm in width, is sharply cut and meticulously balanced to complement the structured shoulder line. The lapel’s roll suggests a half-canvassed or fully canvassed interior, likely reinforced with horsehair canvas for a crisp yet natural drape. Pad stitching along the lapel canvas, whether hand-sewn or machine-assisted, ensures the fabric molds seamlessly to the wearer's form over time. The front closure is positioned at an ideal midpoint, maintaining proportion and allowing ease of movement while preserving the blazer’s architectural rigidity. The flap pockets, aligned with surgical precision to the pinstripe pattern, are a testament to high-level pattern matching at the cutting stage. A welted chest pocket further enhances the blazer’s formal structure, reinforcing the clean, uninterrupted lines integral to traditional German tailoring. The rear vent configuration, likely a double-vented design, ensures fluid movement while maintaining shape retention. The hem and side seams exhibit clean reinforcement, with bound interior seams indicative of high-end finishing techniques. Inside, the lining is attached using a bagged lining method, producing an immaculate interior free of visible stitching disruptions. The presence of a neatly inserted zippered pocket adds a functional, modern touch to the otherwise historically grounded tailoring. Pickstitching along the lapel and facing seams—either hand-finished or executed with precision machine assistance—adds refinement and structural reinforcement to the garment. The shoulder construction is executed with disciplined precision, featuring light padding that reinforces a defined shoulder line without excessive bulk. The sleeve attachment follows a set-in construction, ensuring a clean, seamless transition from the structured shoulder to the tapering arm. The cuffs, detailed with four-button placement, maintain standard businesswear conventions, likely designed as non-functional mock buttons. The undercollar is reinforced with melton wool, providing additional shaping stability, while the buttonholes appear to be reinforced with gimped thread, a hallmark of premium tailoring. Historically, the pinstripe blazer has long been associated with professional authority and corporate distinction. The pattern itself finds its origins in 19th-century German banking uniforms, later evolving into a staple of power dressing throughout the 20th century. This particular iteration of the pinstripe blazer recalls the structured, high-stakes corporate suiting of the 1980s and 1990s, an era when precision tailoring and strong silhouettes dominated professional menswear. The fabric choice, balanced proportions, and disciplined stripe placement reinforce its historical alignment with traditional German business attire, evoking the aesthetic of Savile Row suiting while maintaining the functional adaptability of ready-to-wear. The conceptual influence behind this blazer is rooted in a psychological framework of authority, structure, and discipline. Pinstripes have historically been employed to project stature and confidence, particularly in corporate environments where visual cues of professionalism hold significant weight. The structured shoulders and defined lapel angles further emphasize presence, aligning with the long-standing sartorial codes of executive menswear. The subdued contrast of the pinstripe pattern ensures that while the blazer retains its authoritative character, it remains versatile enough for modern styling adaptations. From a contemporary standpoint, while businesswear has seen a shift toward softer, unstructured tailoring, this blazer retains strong appeal among heritage menswear enthusiasts and collectors of high-quality suiting. Its adherence to traditional English tailoring techniques, combined with precise detailing and a structured silhouette, ensures its lasting relevance in both formal and vintage markets. The combination of superior fabric quality, refined craftsmanship, and strategic design execution positions this blazer within the high-end tailored category, appealing to those who appreciate the enduring principles of German suiting. Ultimately, this SCHILD blazer is a testament to English tailoring excellence, bridging the gap between historical menswear traditions and functional modern craftsmanship. Its high-quality worsted wool composition, meticulous stripe alignment, and fully canvassed or half-canvassed construction solidify its status as a refined, premium-tier tailoring piece. Whether integrated into contemporary business wardrobes or preserved as a collector’s item, this blazer maintains its place as a benchmark of structured, professional menswear, reinforcing the lasting influence of German sartorial discipline.

Its subtle pinstripe pattern, meticulously stitched lapels, and precisely shaped shoulder lines suggest a dedication to traditional construction, aligning with the craftsmanship of Huntsman Savile Row, Chittleborough & Morgan, and Edward Sexton—houses known for their authoritative tailoring, sharply defined structures, and commanding drape. The wool fabric, as denoted by its label, exudes understated luxury and durability, resonating with the textile philosophy of Luciano Barbera and Castangia, both of whom specialize in heritage-driven weaves that prioritize longevity without sacrificing refinement. The interior finishing, featuring piped pockets and a contrast lining, further reinforces the garment’s commitment to expert craftsmanship, situating it within the realm of Sartorio Napoli and Canali Exclusive, brands that seamlessly merge Italian ease with rigorous precision. The lapel roll and button stance reflect the aesthetic sensibilities of Stile Latino and Eidos by Isaia, both of which embrace a Neapolitan-influenced fluidity while maintaining a modernized cut. The moderate lapel width and restrained proportions echo the work of Belvest and Massimo Piombo, whose designs prioritize versatility and adaptability within contemporary menswear. The jacket’s construction, marked by precise seaming and meticulous interior finishing, bears a direct connection to d’Avenza and Henry Poole, both of whom are revered for their dedication to hand-finishing techniques that enhance both structure and wearability. The attention to lining selection and stitching details recalls the refined execution found in Davies & Son and Savile Row Bespoke, where understated luxury is realized through razor-sharp tailoring. Its measured balance of traditional precision and modern fluidity finds an apt comparison in Ring Jacket, a house celebrated for its ability to blend craftsmanship with practical wearability. Ultimately, the garment achieves a quiet sophistication, seamlessly fusing elements of German formality with British dynamism. Its final execution—marked by its precise tailoring, thoughtful proportions, and superior materiality—places it within the sphere of Castangia and Sartorio Napoli, brands that cater to individuals who value classic tailoring imbued with contemporary nuance. This is a piece that upholds the tenets of sartorial tradition while embracing the evolving demands of modern refinement.

Measurements (cm)
Chest: 58
Length: 78
Shoulder: 45
Sleeve: 68



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: L
EU Men’s Size: 50


SKU: 005168

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70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
70s, Worsted Twill, High-Density Wool, Structured, Financial District
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