70s, Handwoven, Full Brogue Overlays, Blake-Stitched Sole

Built on an almond-toe Italian last, the shoe features a Blake-stitched sole, full brogue overlays, and hand-inset woven panels across vamp and quarter.

The Simone Lattanzi full brogue Oxford exemplifies the refined quietude of Italian artisanal shoemaking at its most functionally romantic. Emerging from the Marche region—long regarded as Italy’s shoemaking epicenter—the brand balances historical fidelity with sensory tactility, weaving together classic structure and breathable lightness in a design tailored for Mediterranean elegance. While Simone Lattanzi may operate under the radar of globally commercialized maisons, the work itself signals mastery within a select network of Italian connoisseurs who value formality not as rigidity, but as a canvas for craft-forward adaptation. The brand’s identity rests on its ability to reconfigure traditional silhouettes through innovative surface treatments—woven leather, laser-perforated inserts, and anatomical refinements that prioritize climate-conscious wear. Though distinct from the high-theatrics of Silvano Lattanzi (to whom no formal lineage is confirmed), Simone Lattanzi shares the same ethos of artisanal preservation filtered through contemporary restraint. It is this balance—respect for shoemaking’s decorative traditions, combined with a devotion to breathable performance—that positions this model as a pinnacle of functional neo-classicism. Structurally, the shoe is a full brogue Oxford with closed lacing and five blind eyelets per side. The familiar wingtip overlay is paired with window-set woven leather panels across the vamp, quarters, and facings, producing a visual contrast that is both textural and chromatic. The interplay between perforated overlays and ventilated weave provides a dual utility: formal sharpness for unstructured tailoring, and practical airflow for warm-weather dressing. This model is not intended for black tie or winter suiting, but is ideal for summer cocktail attire, Riviera linen tailoring, or sophisticated resortwear—precisely where formal idioms require adaptation without dilution. The upper is built from two carefully juxtaposed leathers. The overlays are full-grain calfskin, likely aniline-finished and hand-glazed, with a subtle luster that results from fine polishing rather than synthetic coating. Natural grain is visible through soft surface wrinkling, confirming minimal correction. Woven panels feature alternating chocolate and matte black strips, hand-inserted into undercut panel windows—a labor-intensive construction technique that offers both tensile stability and natural breathability. The leather weave is soft-tempered and likely tanned via a vegetable or semi-chrome hybrid process, optimizing it for heat management and long-term flexibility without sagging. The last is a classically Italian almond toe—low-profile, gently tapered, and ergonomically modest. The heel counter is sharply defined, and the waist is lightly beveled, offering midfoot support without aggressive arch shaping. Instep height and arch rise are neutral, suiting standard foot types while maintaining the sleekness demanded of true Oxfords. The heel rake is slight, maintaining gait efficiency without exaggeration. This last neither conforms to the blockiness of American heritage nor the rigidity of English military roots—it floats, as Italian silhouettes do, between comfort and elegance. Construction is almost certainly Blake stitch—a lightweight, flexible method preferred in Mediterranean climates for its low profile and breathable integration. Blake construction stitches the upper, insole, and outsole in a single seam, offering immediate step-in comfort and resoling potential through experienced cobblers. While not as water-resistant or orthotically rigid as Goodyear welting, it is ideal for warm-weather dress shoes where airflow, articulation, and formal line are paramount. The outsole, though not fully visible, appears to be leather—likely with a hidden rubber insert at the forefoot or heel for traction and wear protection. The heel is constructed from stacked leather, dyed to match the upper, and shaped into a low-pitched Italian silhouette (~2–3°), offering subtle propulsion and ankle clearance. Beveling along the outsole edge enhances the arch contour visually and functionally. Internally, the lining is full leather—most likely calf—with minimal padding, ensuring moisture regulation and a gradual adaptation to the wearer’s foot over time. The sockliner is stitched, not glued, and bears fabric branding at the heelbed. Absence of foam elements confirms a pure leather interior, favored for its anatomical responsiveness and temperature modulation. This interior approach emphasizes artisanal foot-mapping over orthopedic rigidity. Stitching is executed at 7–8 SPI with fine-gauge thread—precise, evenly tensioned, and crisply executed along both structural seams and decorative broguing. The brogue perforations are symmetrical and crisply punched; pinked edges along the wingtips and quarters are sharply cut without fray. The topline and facing edges are burnished and inwardly folded, reinforcing the shoe’s finish integrity. These high-level details are consistent with bespoke-standard shoemaking, particularly in the Mediterranean tradition, where surface cleanliness is inseparable from construction quality. Panel architecture reflects expert patternmaking. The wingtip overlay wraps from toe to mid-quarter with seamless fluidity, while the woven inserts are set within rigid leather shells—an elegant solution that maintains structural integrity without sacrificing flexibility or breathability. The quarter seams curve in a sweeping arc that enhances the visual dynamism of the silhouette. The effect is not ornamental excess but architectural cadence—late Art Deco in mood, Neapolitan in grace. The toe box is softly reinforced, likely using leatherboard or compressed felt, providing sufficient structure to preserve shape without diminishing comfort. The very front of the toe excludes the weave, preserving a solid tip for visual definition and practical resistance. The wingtip overlay fortifies the forefoot without stiffness, balancing breathability and form. While not suitable for aggressive impact or rugged wear, the construction is more than adequate for formal walking, eventwear, and refined daily use. The closure system adheres to a true Oxford standard—five blind eyelets with a sharply contoured facing and no throat gap when laced. Eyelets are internally reinforced but unadorned externally, preserving the uninterrupted leather surface. Laces are thin waxed cotton—elegant, unobtrusive, and consistent with the shoe’s visual restraint. This configuration, combined with the tight throat line, ensures a snug yet refined lockdown fit. Finishing is nuanced and appropriately restrained. The calfskin overlays are hand-glazed to achieve a high-gloss surface that avoids the artificial sheen of synthetic coatings. Burnishing is applied sparingly at seam transitions to increase depth, not to simulate aging. The woven leather retains a natural matte finish, creating a textural and tonal dialogue with the polished overlays. This juxtaposition elevates the surface complexity without tipping into ostentation—Italian dresswear polished, but never lacquered. Decorative elements are historically grounded and technically justified. Full broguing, pinking, and curvilinear quarter seams provide classic structure, while the two-tone woven panels deliver airflow and visual rhythm. No extraneous features—no metal hardware, contrast piping, or exaggerated branding—distract from the purity of the material expression. Each design element is either structurally necessary or culturally referential, reinforcing the shoe’s clarity of intent. The heel cup is firm and topstitched, with a subtle forward curve that facilitates Achilles clearance. Internal padding is minimal but well-distributed, and the collar binding is tucked and edge-painted, providing durability and frictionless wear. These details echo the hand-finished standards found in Italy’s finest non-industrial footwear circles. Arch support is moderate, consistent with Blake construction and the softly beveled waist. A thin steel or nylon shank may be embedded to provide midfoot structure without rigidity. This supports standard arch profiles comfortably, though those with elevated arches may prefer insole supplementation. The balance between flexibility and structural shaping reflects a practical compromise—performance without orthopedic overreach. Stylistically, the shoe pays homage to 1920s–1930s Southern Italian brogues—models designed for the elite navigating summer villas and formal promenades in Naples, Capri, and Palermo. The wingtip structure references Anglo-Saxon formality, while the woven inserts modernize the logic of ventilation. The effect is sartorial duality: Anglo form, Mediterranean function. It is a shoe built on cultural intersection, not stylistic pastiche. Its design philosophy reflects the Italian tradition of formal deconstruction—refining rather than rebelling, adapting the codes of formality to suit context and climate. In spirit, the shoe channels Luchino Visconti’s cinematic sensuality: elegance imbued with labor, charm articulated through restraint. It is a romantic object in the best sense—crafted, expressive, and grounded in utility. Within the current menswear landscape, this model occupies the ideal intersection of quiet luxury and seasonal specificity. Its appeal spans customers of Barbanera, Stefano Branchini, and Enzo Bonafè—those who seek narrative craft over spectacle. It would find a natural home in specialty boutiques such as The Armoury, Maison Degand, or No Man Walks Alone. Its cross-genre adaptability—capable of anchoring fresco trousers or elevating resort tailoring—ensures relevance in wardrobes where elegance is performative but never overwrought. In final analysis, this Simone Lattanzi Oxford exemplifies a rarefied blend of shoemaking precision, tactile engineering, and formal seasonal fluency. It is not a Goodyear-welted fortress, but a Blake-stitched expression of Mediterranean refinement. The woven paneling is not trend—it is craft, engineered to ventilate, articulate, and visually enrich. At a projected retail tier of $475–$625, this shoe delivers exceptional value for its class—an artisanal object designed not to dominate the room, but to quietly command it.

Measurements (cm):
Insole: 28.25 cm

Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: 10
US Women’s Size: 11.5