Brand: Staller
Origin: Finland
70s Vintage (mint condition)
Tag:
Kokkola
Fabric: Leather
Composition: Lambskin
Measurements (cm)
Chest: 55
Length: 64
Shoulder: 46
Sleeve: 62
SKU: 004797
This burgundy leather jacket by Staller, a Finnish leather goods manufacturer based in Kokkola, embodies the rugged yet refined craftsmanship characteristic of Scandinavian outerwear. Known for its emphasis on high-quality leather garments, Staller integrates traditional Scandinavian craftsmanship with durable materials, catering to a niche market of artisanal leatherwear. This piece aligns closely with mid-to-late 20th-century European leather jackets, drawing clear influences from classic flight and bomber jacket silhouettes. The design merges utilitarian function with an aesthetic sensibility that prioritizes structure, durability, and long-term wearability. The leather used in this jacket appears to be full-grain or top-grain, exhibiting a rich natural patina and creasing that suggests either premium vegetable tanning or a well-aged chrome-tanned finish. Its brown hue, warmer than the standard black found in many leather bombers, reinforces a vintage mid-century appeal while allowing for greater versatility in styling. The cut follows the traditional bomber silhouette, featuring a ribbed knit hem and cuffs that provide insulation, sealing in warmth while maintaining a close-to-body fit. These ribbed elements serve both as functional and aesthetic components, evoking aviation jackets repurposed for civilian wear while creating a structured yet relaxed look. The raglan sleeve construction distinguishes this jacket from standard bombers by softening the shoulder line, enhancing mobility, and ensuring a smoother, more contoured silhouette. The construction techniques employed in this jacket reflect meticulous attention to both form and function. The garment is structured using multiple leather panels, ensuring ergonomic shaping and flexibility without unnecessary bulk. The raglan sleeves follow a curved path from the collar to the underarm, a precision-cut paneling choice that facilitates unrestricted movement. A horizontal yoke runs across the upper chest and back, reinforcing structural integrity while preventing excessive stretching of the leather. The lower body features vertical panels that transition smoothly into welt pockets, seamlessly integrating practicality into the design. The back panel includes subtle darting across the shoulder blades, maintaining the jacket’s tailored shape and ensuring a refined fit. Each seam and detail is executed with precision, reinforcing the jacket’s durability. Double-stitched seams enhance high-stress areas, providing both strength and a decorative edge that adds to the garment’s rugged character. The front welt pockets are crafted with a precise folding and edge-finishing technique that prevents bulk, a challenging feature in leather construction. The ribbed knit hem and cuffs, likely composed of a wool blend or a synthetic fiber with elastic content, contrast with the structured leather body, balancing flexibility with structure. The interior lining, made from either a satin-weave polyester or a cotton blend, ensures durability while maintaining breathability, allowing for comfort and ease of wear. The jacket’s hardware elements further reinforce its functionality. A center-front metal zipper, likely heavy-duty, is concealed by a leather placket, reducing wind exposure and maintaining a streamlined aesthetic. A snap-button at the hem provides additional security, ensuring the jacket remains closed in colder weather. The cuffs feature snap closures that allow for slight adjustments in fit, accommodating layering. The spread collar, reinforced with interlining, maintains its structured appearance over time, preventing collapse and ensuring a sharp profile. In assessing the craftsmanship, the jacket demonstrates an advanced understanding of leather tailoring and movement, evident in the sleeve shaping, yoke integration, and precise paneling. The interior lining underscores a commitment to practicality, avoiding unnecessary embellishments while ensuring comfort. The concealed placket over the zipper serves a functional role, protecting against wind exposure, while the welt pockets, reinforced with double-stitching, add to the garment’s overall longevity. The Finnish branding on the label aligns with Finland’s tradition of producing high-quality, climate-adapted leatherwear, further situating this jacket within a heritage of durable and well-crafted outerwear. When compared to other iconic leather jackets, this piece bears similarities to Schott NYC’s classic flight jackets, particularly in its bomber-style ribbed trim and durable leather construction. The relaxed fit and focus on mobility reflect Scandinavian workwear influences, differentiating it from American bombers that often have a more structured, rigid fit. German brands such as Eduard Dressler or Hein Gericke share a similar dedication to meticulous leather treatment, emphasizing both longevity and performance. The jacket’s Scandinavian roots align it with Swedish leather brands like Jofama, which similarly balance functional cold-weather outerwear with a refined, minimalistic approach. The patina and natural grain markings present on the leather suggest a well-aged, high-quality hide that improves over time. Unlike modern mass-produced leather garments, which often use corrected-grain leather to eliminate imperfections, this piece retains the authentic texture and depth characteristic of superior hide selection. The presence of wear patterns adds to its authenticity, making it highly desirable within the contemporary vintage market, where aged patinas and well-preserved leather command significant interest. Beyond its structural components, the jacket adheres to the relaxed, slightly boxy silhouette indicative of traditional flight jackets. The high armhole placement and broad shoulder cut enhance a masculine, structured appearance, while the cinched hem emphasizes the bomber-style shape. The raglan sleeves contribute to the ergonomic design, ensuring comfort without sacrificing the jacket’s sharp lines. The spread collar, a hallmark of mid-century aviator jackets, enhances functionality while allowing for layering versatility. The finishing techniques demonstrate a high standard of leather craftsmanship. The seams are cleanly finished, with topstitching reinforcing high-wear areas such as the armholes and pocket edges. The welt pockets are flush with the surface, maintaining the jacket’s sleek design without adding unnecessary bulk. The ribbed hem and cuffs provide elasticity, ensuring shape retention over time and allowing for a close but flexible fit. The neckline is reinforced with an internal facing, preventing distortion and maintaining the collar’s sharpness. Stylistically, this jacket draws influence from mid-20th-century military and aviation outerwear, refined through Scandinavian craftsmanship. The design psychology leans towards rugged masculinity, resilience, and understated sophistication, making it a versatile staple adaptable to both casual and semi-formal settings. The brown leather enhances its vintage appeal, distinguishing it from the more ubiquitous black leather jackets typically associated with motorcycle or punk subcultures. Historically, this piece belongs to the lineage of European leather craftsmanship, particularly within Finland, where outerwear is designed for both extreme weather conditions and everyday wearability. Based on its construction and materials, the jacket likely dates from the 1970s or 1980s, a period marked by an increasing shift towards refined yet practical leather outerwear. The functional details, such as the concealed zipper placket and reinforced seams, indicate a focus on longevity, a core principle in Scandinavian design philosophy. From a contemporary fashion perspective, vintage leather jackets of this caliber continue to be highly sought after, particularly among collectors and enthusiasts of archival fashion. The natural wear and aging of the leather add to its desirability, reflecting a market trend that values authenticity and lived-in character over artificially distressed reproductions. The classic bomber silhouette ensures its relevance across evolving fashion cycles, positioning it as a timeless investment piece. The final assessment underscores this jacket’s superior construction, distinctive design, and long-term wearability. The combination of high-quality materials, expert craftsmanship, and thoughtful detailing solidifies its status as a durable, high-value vintage garment. Its versatility allows it to transition effortlessly between casual and refined settings, reinforcing its position as a wardrobe essential. This Staller jacket stands at the intersection of functional Scandinavian design and the enduring legacy of aviation-inspired leatherwear, making it an exceptionally rare and desirable piece within the vintage market.
The heritage of Schott serves as an undeniable reference point for this piece, with its history rooted in durable, utilitarian leather outerwear that became iconic through its military and subcultural adoption. The presence of rugged, well-worn leather echoes Avirex, a brand synonymous with aviator and military-inspired jackets, where patina becomes a testament to quality and longevity. Pelle Pelle, though more connected to hip-hop culture, aligns through its bold, oversized proportions and high-quality leather craftsmanship, reinforcing how leather outerwear transcends generations and cultural shifts. With The Real McCoy’s and Iron Heart, the commitment to period-correct leather jacket construction is evident. The ribbed hem, substantial yet supple leather, and reinforced seams suggest a garment designed to age beautifully. The jacket’s structured collar and paneling bring to mind Lewis Leathers, where classic silhouettes are imbued with motorcycling heritage, combining function with understated luxury. Belstaff’s DNA is reflected in the balance of heritage and contemporary wearability—this jacket, while grounded in tradition, possesses a sleekness that integrates into modern wardrobes seamlessly. On the luxury end, Ralph Lauren Purple Label channels a refined, equestrian-inflected take on leather outerwear, where material choice and finishing are paramount. Giorgio Armani, especially in its ‘80s and ‘90s heyday, championed supple leather jackets in earthy tones that exuded effortless elegance, aligning with the sophisticated restraint of this piece. Loro Piana and Berluti elevate leather craftsmanship to an art form, focusing on the tactile nature of the material. Their interpretation of a leather jacket might use even softer hides, but the emphasis on timelessness mirrors the essence of this design. Kiton and Seraphin refine the construction techniques, ensuring that even robust outerwear carries an air of exclusivity and tailoring precision. The slight curvature in the sleeve pattern suggests ergonomic considerations found in these houses. Eleventy, with its understated, pared-down Italian luxury aesthetic, emphasizes the ability of such a jacket to transition between casual and formal styling, while Lotuff Leather’s expertise in hide selection speaks to the texture and aging potential of this piece. Ermenegildo Zegna’s advancements in leather processing and material innovation parallel the aspirations of this garment—luxurious yet wearable, durable yet refined. The ribbed waistband and cuffs contribute to a bomber-adjacent silhouette, reinforcing how this design bridges military heritage with a sartorial approach. Altogether, this jacket exemplifies an equilibrium between ruggedness and sophistication, maintaining the patina of time as part of its identity. The selected brands for analysis: Sartoria Ciardi, Huntsman Savile Row, Cesare Attolini, Edward Sexton, Liverano & Liverano, De Petrillo, Raffaele Caruso, Anderson & Sheppard, Richard James, Boglioli, Ring Jacket, Eidos by Isaia, Rubinacci, Paul Stuart, Kiton, Drake’s. The Prince of Wales virgin wool tweed blazer exemplifies the classical refinement of traditional British and Italian tailoring while incorporating modern influences from contemporary sartorial houses. The structured silhouette, featuring a sharp lapel, moderately padded shoulders, and a streamlined waist, aligns closely with the aesthetic codes of Savile Row houses such as Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard, both of which emphasize proportion and handcraft. The tweed composition, woven with a subtle yet distinct check pattern, channels the heritage of Liverano & Liverano and Cesare Attolini, brands known for their meticulous fabric selections sourced from the most revered European mills. The soft construction and natural drape suggest an affinity with Neapolitan tailoring, particularly De Petrillo and Rubinacci, both of which favor deconstructed yet impeccably cut garments that balance formality with ease. The construction details of this blazer indicate a high degree of workmanship. The fabric, a tightly woven virgin wool tweed, offers durability, insulation, and a characteristic rugged elegance reminiscent of Paul Stuart and Kiton, brands that elevate classic tailoring through material selection and refined finishing. The fully canvassed interior provides structure without rigidity, a hallmark of Edward Sexton and Richard James, who bridge heritage craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring standards. The choice of horn buttons, hand-stitched lapels, and pick-stitch detailing along the seams suggests an artisanal approach aligned with Sartoria Ciardi and Raffaele Caruso, both of which integrate traditional methods with modernized silhouettes. In terms of stylistic heritage, the Prince of Wales check pattern has a long-standing association with aristocratic British dress codes, famously worn by the Duke of Windsor and perpetuated by tailoring houses such as Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard. The subdued color palette and fine check detailing reflect the philosophy of Drake’s and Boglioli, brands that reinterpret classic menswear motifs through a modern lens. The silhouette, with its slightly elongated lapels and balanced proportions, echoes the precision of Ring Jacket and Eidos by Isaia, which consistently merge contemporary wearability with old-world tailoring finesse. The blazer’s drape and unstructured shoulder line lean towards the Neapolitan approach, distinguishing it from more rigid British tailoring while maintaining a sophisticated presence. Ultimately, this garment embodies the convergence of English and Italian tailoring traditions, synthesizing the structured elegance of Savile Row with the soft sophistication of Neapolitan craftsmanship. The meticulous fabric selection, refined yet relaxed silhouette, and artisanal finishing make it a versatile staple that aligns with the DNA of both heritage and modern tailoring brands. It achieves a balance between formality and effortless sophistication, positioning itself within the legacy of master tailors who prioritize proportion, fabric quality, and the subtleties of construction.
