Sundazed (Austria)

80s, Victorian Passementerie, Ceremonial

$131.00


: S
: Black

Embroidered with precision, the structured knit sweater merges historical uniform detailing with 1980s power dressing.

The sweater exhibits a strongly graphic yoke design, featuring intricate embroidery, appliqué techniques, and precise tailoring. The aesthetic suggests a link to 1980s avant-garde knitwear brands, such as Krizia, Claude Montana, or Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, where bold geometric placement and ornamental detailing defined the era. The combination of a monochromatic palette with elaborate embroidery also aligns with historically inspired decorative textiles, reminiscent of military frogging, Hungarian folk embroidery, or Victorian passementerie. This sweater belongs to a category of statement knitwear, where ornamental yokes and bold contrast panels were integral to 1980s European fashion movements. The structured silhouette, high neckline, and embroidered embellishments recall the theatrical, couture-like knitwear produced by Jean Paul Gaultier and Romeo Gigli. The embroidery follows a regimented yet organic movement, drawing influence from historical uniform detailing and rococo textile design. A sculptural yoke, the V-shaped contrast panel with elaborate embroidery serves to draw attention to the upper torso and frame the face, a technique often used in historical ceremonial uniforms and period tailoring. The form-fitting waist and voluminous sleeves emphasize a structured silhouette. This garment features a smooth fine-gauge knit base contrasted by an applied lace-textured embellishment. The main body is composed of a highly compact stockinette or jersey knit, providing a smooth surface with subtle elasticity, likely machine-knit in a fine-gauge setting. The decorative section consists of a contrasting light-colored knit panel adorned with black embroidered detailing, forming an intricate, raised wavy pattern. This embellishment is likely couching embroidery, where a secondary thread or yarn is stitched down with finer thread, creating the textured motif. The edge finishing features a picot trim, reinforcing the ornamental and vintage-inspired aesthetic. The ribbed waistband and cuffs are constructed using a tight 2x2 rib stitch, ensuring structure and elasticity, while the buttoned high neckline suggests a structured, tailored fit. The ornamental embroidery and picot trim detailing draw from multiple historical and regional textile traditions: Edwardian embroidered knitwear from early 20th-century UK and France, Hungarian Matyó embroidery, 19th-century French tambour work, and Victorian lingerie knits. Given the precision of the fine-gauge knitting, controlled embroidery work, and delicate edging, which aligns with high-end knitwear production mills such as Solstiss, Piacenza Cashmere, Carriaggi, and Forster Rohner. This is a fine-gauge jersey knit textile enhanced with embroidered couching motifs and picot trim. The garment blends Edwardian-inspired embroidery techniques with vintage knitwear construction, referencing 19th-century European embroidered knits and Victorian lingerie trims. The structural ribbing at the waistband and cuffs ensures fit retention, while the buttoned high neckline enhances its refined silhouette. Fully fashioned knit panels ensure precise shaping without excessive seams, while the contrast yoke panel is appliquéd onto the base knit, requiring high precision in alignment and stitching stability. The ornate embroidery is raised, incorporating corded detailing for a sculptural effect, reinforcing textural interplay and depth. The neckline features a fine-gauge rib knit collar, lending flexibility while maintaining structure, while the cuffs and waistband are tightly knit ribbing, ensuring shape retention and a fitted finish. The yoke embroidery is meticulously arranged in a symmetrical, mirrored pattern, showcasing skilled hand or machine-guided embroidery techniques. The fine picot edging along the contrast panel enhances the decorative effect, referencing historical passementerie trims. The strategic positioning of the embellishment along the yoke transforms the sweater into a high-visual-impact garment. The ornate yoke design aligns with historical embroidered military jackets, particularly 19th-century Hussar uniforms and European court dress. The bold use of high-contrast appliqué panels references the structured knitwear of the 1980s, where brands like Mugler, Genny, and Gianfranco Ferré experimented with architectural knit construction. The V-shaped yoke placement is a hallmark of traditional cowboy shirts and early 20th-century westernwear, modernized here through intricate textural embroidery. The base knit appears to be a fine-gauge wool or synthetic knit blend, ensuring a balance between warmth and drape. The contrast panel is a midweight knit fabric, likely chosen for its ability to support heavy embroidery without excessive stretch or warping. The threadwork in the embroidery is likely a cotton-rayon blend, giving a slight sheen and raised texture to the embellishment. The main sweater body is a smooth jersey knit, providing a clean backdrop for the highly textural yoke detail. The yoke panel is likely attached through a secondary appliqué process, requiring high-tension stitching to prevent distortion. The decorative picot trim along the edges is executed with meticulous precision, enhancing the transition between the two sections. The V-shaped yoke is both an aesthetic and structural element, serving to reinforce the garment’s upper body fit. The waistband and cuffs are tightly ribbed, creating a tapered effect that enhances the overall silhouette. The sleeves feature slight volume at the shoulders, suggesting either a drop-shoulder or subtly structured sleeve cap. The high neckline is finished with a fine rib-knit, ensuring flexibility without sagging. The back closure features a loop-and-button fastening, allowing for a snug, tailored fit without compromising wearability. The seams along the yoke are precisely executed, with no visible puckering or tension imbalances. The picot trim along the yoke’s edge is consistently spaced and expertly finished, highlighting a refined attention to detail. The ribbed cuffs and hem maintain a tight, elastic structure, preventing overstretching or loss of form. The interior finishing is likely reinforced with backing to support the embroidery’s raised effect. The contrasting yoke and embroidery create a strong visual focal point, evoking authority and power, akin to historical uniform elements. The intricate looping embroidery adds a sense of movement and fluidity, balancing the garment’s otherwise rigid structure. The combination of military detailing and soft knit plays on juxtapositions of strength and elegance. Strongly influenced by historical embroidery traditions, military uniform aesthetics, and structured 1980s knitwear, the graphic contrast yoke serves both artistic and structural purposes, merging visual impact with precise tailoring. The use of curvilinear embroidery against a sharp V-shaped yoke creates an interplay between organic and geometric forms. The embroidery technique recalls 19th-century European military uniforms, which featured highly decorative embellishments. The sweater’s silhouette aligns with 1980s power dressing, where structured shoulders and bold contrast yokes were prominent. The ornamental detailing draws connections to Victorian passementerie and Rococo textile ornamentation. Aligning with luxury knitwear trends that emphasize sculptural embellishment, seen in brands like Dries Van Noten and Sacai, the rich contrast detailing makes it ideal for archival vintage collections or high-end knitwear resale markets. With the resurgence of highly decorative knitwear in contemporary fashion, this piece holds strong value within avant-garde and statement knitwear categories. A highly unique, intricately executed knitwear piece that merges historical influences with contemporary form, the balance of embroidery, contrast panels, and structured fit positions it within high-value knitwear resale. Suitable for collectors, vintage enthusiasts, and those who appreciate architectural knitwear and historical embellishment, this sweater is a masterclass in contrast detailing, embroidery, and structured knitwear, merging historical military influences with avant-garde 1980s design principles. The sculptural embroidery, precisely applied contrast panels, and ribbed structuring create a statement knitwear piece that remains highly relevant in archival fashion collections, luxury resale markets, and contemporary embellishment-driven knitwear trends.

The swirling embellishments, evocative of rococo flourishes, elevate the garment beyond conventional knitwear, aligning it with couture-inspired craftsmanship. Its fitted waist and subtly voluminous sleeves introduce a sense of vintage femininity, while the juxtaposition of structured form and intricate detailing imbues it with an architectural presence that transcends trends. Cherevichkiotvichki and Cecilie Bahnsen encapsulate the ethereal, handcrafted sensibility that defines this piece, situating it within a lineage of delicate yet structured textile traditions. Raquel Diniz and Marc Le Bihan contribute a deconstructionist poetics, favoring asymmetrical refinements and period-influenced tailoring that harmonize with the sweater’s sculptural fluidity. Luisa Beccaria and John Galliano introduce a romantic sensibility, reinforcing the regal high-collared silhouette through their shared mastery of intricate embellishment, while Rifat Ozbek’s textile-driven aesthetic deepens the historical dialogue embedded in the design. The garment’s commitment to ornamentation and tailored precision aligns it with Derosa and Rochas, whose refined femininity finds resonance in the piece’s delicate balance of structure and embellishment. Christophe Lemaire’s minimalist rigor serves as a counterpoint, ensuring that the intricate details remain grounded within a disciplined silhouette. Marina Moscone and Rodarte further articulate the ethereal quality of embroidery and soft tailoring, while Vionnet’s pioneering work in drapery and bias-cut fluidity informs the organic contours of the garment’s embellishments. Skall Studio and Isabel Marant Étoile introduce a contemporary dimension, bridging heritage craftsmanship with effortless modern wearability. Annette Görtz and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini extend this narrative through structured knitwear that maintains a romantic, yet cleanly executed aesthetic. Adele Simpson and Mes Demoiselles infuse a haute-bohemian influence, underscoring the piece’s ability to navigate both nostalgia and modernity. Stella McCartney finalizes this intersection by reinforcing a commitment to sustainable, detail-oriented knitwear that echoes historical embellishment techniques with an environmentally conscious approach. The sweater’s relationship to couture and gothic romanticism becomes evident through its alignment with Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, and The Vampire’s Wife, each of whom integrates historical grandeur with contemporary craftsmanship. Azzedine Alaïa and Magda Butrym contribute a sculptural, body-conscious perspective, emphasizing precision tailoring that enhances the garment’s interplay of structure and fluidity. Ema Savahl and Norman Norell introduce an artistic sensibility through embellishment, reinforcing the embroidered V-panel as a focal point of textile expression. Elsa Schiaparelli and Claude Montana infuse the garment with an avant-garde, surrealist undercurrent, ensuring that the design remains within a broader conversation of experimental textile manipulation. This sweater operates as an exquisite study in contrast—merging architectural rigidity with ornamental fluidity, historical referencing with contemporary execution. Its high neckline and defined waist recall elements of historical tailoring, while the intricate embroidery functions as both a visual and tactile exploration of craftsmanship. The result is a sculptural knitwear piece that seamlessly bridges vintage romanticism with modern precision, affirming its place within the discourse of refined, intellectually driven fashion.

Measurements (cm)
Chest: 46
Length: 54
Shoulder: 38
Sleeve: 58



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Women’s Size: S–M
EU Women’s Size: 36–38


SKU: 004957

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