Sundazed (Germany)

80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate

$123.00


: M
: Navy

Magic tricks and masterpieces share a secret: they captivate, they deceive, and they never apologize for it.

This navy blue wool-blend blazer exemplifies a refined balance between traditional tailoring and functional versatility, embodying the precision of European craftsmanship. Likely produced by a German manufacturer, as indicated by the label, the blazer reflects Germany’s longstanding tradition of high-quality suiting, where structured tailoring meets practical durability. German-made tailoring is often considered comparable to its Italian and British counterparts, with a strong emphasis on construction integrity, clean lines, and efficient design. The garment’s structured lapels, high-gauge fabric, and utilitarian details suggest it was designed for smart-casual or business attire, bridging the gap between formal suiting and relaxed layering. The three-button, single-breasted closure further aligns with classic European menswear traditions, particularly those associated with Ivy League tailoring and mid-century workwear-inspired blazers. The design elements of this blazer contribute to its refined yet adaptable aesthetic. The three-button closure allows for multiple styling options, with the top button fastened for a traditional, authoritative stance or the middle button for a more relaxed, modern silhouette. The wide, structured notch lapels reinforce a bold yet versatile look, while the patch pockets introduce a utilitarian influence that differentiates it from strictly formal suit jackets. The chest pocket is welted, balancing proportions and maintaining a subtle nod to traditional suiting elements. A double back vent enhances movement and breathability, making the blazer more functional for all-day wear. The structured shoulders, with light padding, ensure a tailored yet natural silhouette, avoiding the stiffness of heavily constructed corporate suiting while retaining definition. The construction of this blazer is executed with precision, likely featuring a half-canvassed or fully canvassed structure. The canvas interlining reinforces the front panels, allowing the blazer to mold to the wearer over time while maintaining its shape and drape. Set-in sleeves ensure a clean shoulder line, seamlessly transitioning from the structured upper body to the arms. The precision topstitching along the lapels, pocket edges, and front panels is a hallmark of expert tailoring, reinforcing the garment’s shape over extended wear. Inside, reinforced pocket seams enhance durability, and the neatly finished lining ensures ease of movement and breathability. The blazer is crafted from a mid-weight wool twill blend, composed of 55% polyester and 45% virgin wool. This combination provides the warmth and breathability of wool while benefiting from the resilience and wrinkle resistance of polyester. The fabric’s twill weave introduces a subtle diagonal texture, enhancing its structural integrity and preventing excessive creasing. The matte finish with a slight luster suggests a tightly woven composition, ideal for maintaining a sharp, tailored appearance without excessive stiffness. The full satin polyester lining offers a smooth interior surface, facilitating effortless layering over shirts or knitwear while maintaining temperature regulation. Examining the weave structure reveals a tightly woven textile with a visible diagonal ribbing pattern, characteristic of twill construction. This particular weave enhances the fabric’s durability and drape, making it well-suited for structured garments like blazers. The fine-gauge twill suggests a double-weave technique, adding body and resilience while retaining a refined texture. Historically, this fabric aligns with several well-regarded suiting textiles, including cavalry twill, known for its robust structure and durability; worsted gabardine, a tightly woven fabric originally patented by Thomas Burberry, offering similar resilience and structured drape; Saxony wool, a fine wool fabric historically produced in Germany with a balance of softness and durability; and double-weave serge, a suiting textile that features a strong, structured twill pattern. Several world-renowned textile mills specialize in fabrics with characteristics similar to this blazer’s wool-blend composition. Vitale Barberis Canonico, one of Italy’s oldest wool mills, is known for its high-twist worsteds and structured twills, ensuring a refined yet durable fabric. Loro Piana, another Italian luxury fabric producer, develops wool blends with exceptional resilience and finish, offering fabrics that maintain their structure while draping naturally. Fox Brothers, a historic UK textile mill, specializes in twill-based wool suiting, including cavalry twills and heritage serges, which bear similarities to this fabric. Dormeuil, a French textile manufacturer, produces structured double-weave wool textiles often used in high-end tailoring. The fabric’s properties contribute to both aesthetic appeal and functionality. The wool component provides natural insulation and breathability, making it comfortable in various climates, while polyester enhances shape retention and minimizes wrinkling. The double-weave construction ensures that the fabric maintains its sharp structure, making it an excellent choice for tailored pieces that require both durability and an elegant drape. The combination of these qualities makes the blazer suitable for multi-seasonal wear, adapting effortlessly to different layering needs. The garment’s structural composition follows a carefully considered patternmaking approach. The single-breasted, three-button front closure adheres to a classic menswear silhouette, often associated with Ivy League blazers, equestrian riding jackets, and European heritage tailoring. The notch lapels are proportioned for a balanced look, neither overly slim nor exaggeratedly wide, ensuring timeless appeal. Patch pockets reinforce the blazer’s workwear-inspired aesthetic, leaning towards a relaxed yet sophisticated interpretation of suiting, a feature often seen in Italian and British sports jackets. The single vent at the back allows for ease of movement, a crucial element in ensuring comfort while maintaining a clean drape. The vent is reinforced at the seams, preventing fraying and ensuring longevity. The blazer’s construction reflects high standards of tailoring, particularly in its canvas interlining and structured shoulder design. The shoulder padding is kept minimal, offering just enough support to maintain the jacket’s shape without creating a rigid, overly formal look. The set-in sleeves provide a tailored fit, ensuring a sleek, uninterrupted line from the shoulder to the wrist. The sleeve cuffs feature four non-functional buttons, a detail often found in high-quality ready-to-wear tailoring, with the option for adjustments should the wearer wish to customize the fit. Inside, the blazer features multiple functional pockets, including a buttoned security pocket and a zippered utility pocket, an uncommon yet practical addition that reinforces the garment’s workwear-inspired elements. These details enhance the usability of the blazer, making it a piece designed for both professional and casual settings. Attention to finishing techniques further elevates the garment’s quality. Edge topstitching along the lapels, pocket edges, and front panels reinforces the structure, ensuring longevity. The full lining is machine-attached with neatly finished seams, preventing fabric distortion over time. The back vent is cleanly stitched and reinforced, maintaining its sharp form even with frequent movement. The lapel buttonhole is functional and neatly finished, a detail that reflects traditional tailoring excellence. The blazer’s style inspiration lies at the intersection of corporate elegance and functional design, making it a hybrid between classic suiting and contemporary workwear. The patch pockets signal a relaxed sensibility, while the sharp lapels and structured drape retain an air of authority. The deep navy color evokes professionalism, confidence, and adaptability, making it a wardrobe essential. It draws influence from mid-century European tailoring, particularly the relaxed yet structured styles pioneered by designers like Giorgio Armani in the 1980s, as well as Japanese minimalist tailoring seen in brands such as Comme des Garçons Homme. The incorporation of patch pockets also echoes French work jackets, blending utilitarian influences with sharp, modern lines. Historically, the three-button blazer gained prominence in the 1990s and early 2000s as designers experimented with deconstructed tailoring. The patch-pocket blazer style, however, dates back to early 20th-century workwear, when European craftsmen required outerwear that was both functional and refined. This specific piece aligns with the late 20th-century European fashion movement, which prioritized durable, multi-functional garments over rigid suiting. In the contemporary market, the patch-pocket wool blazer remains highly relevant, especially with the rise of business-casual and smart-casual dress codes. Modern interpretations can be seen in collections from Lemaire, Margaret Howell, and workwear-inspired tailoring by brands such as Dries Van Noten and Engineered Garments. The combination of a structured yet relaxed silhouette ensures it remains a staple in modern menswear. Ultimately, this German-made navy wool-blend blazer represents a well-constructed, highly versatile garment that merges classic tailoring with utilitarian details. Its precision stitching, structured lapels, and high-quality fabric composition distinguish it from mass-market blazers, positioning it as a durable investment piece. While it does not push the boundaries of avant-garde design, its balanced proportions and minimalist elegance ensure long-term relevance in both professional and casual wardrobes. The half-canvassed construction, soft-structured shoulders, and functional interior pockets enhance its durability and wearability, making it a timeless addition to any refined wardrobe.

This navy-blue blazer exhibits a structured yet understated elegance, indicative of refined Italian tailoring traditions. The silhouette is sharp with a slightly softened construction, a hallmark of Neapolitan and Milanese tailoring houses like Kiton, Cesare Attolini, and Brioni. The fabric composition, consisting of 55% polyester and 45% virgin wool, suggests a durable, travel-friendly textile with a balance of resilience and breathability, akin to blends used by Zegna and Loro Piana in their performance suiting lines.The jacket's lapels are wide with a classic notch, aligning with sartorial preferences seen in brands like Isaia and Sartorio Napoli, known for their sharp yet unstructured tailoring. The hand-finished details around the lapels and pockets, along with the reinforced stitching, are reminiscent of the meticulous craftsmanship of Rubinacci and Caruso, blending traditional tailoring with a modern touch.The three-button closure with a slightly elongated body leans towards a classic menswear aesthetic favored by Canali and Corneliani. This design choice ensures a refined silhouette, suitable for both formal and casual layering. The patch pockets add a relaxed yet sophisticated element, in line with styles seen in Boglioli and Stile Latino, brands that embrace a softer construction while maintaining sartorial integrity.Internally, the jacket features a high-quality viscose lining, ensuring smooth drape and breathability—similar to the luxurious linings employed by Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani. The stitching and reinforcement around the label and pocket areas reflect precision in construction, characteristic of Ring Jacket and Cesare Attolini, which emphasize durability without compromising aesthetics.The shoulder structure suggests a semi-unstructured fit, possibly employing a light canvas or soft padding to maintain shape without rigidity—techniques perfected by Neapolitan tailors like Kiton and Sartorio Napoli. The sleeve buttons are likely functional (a surgeon’s cuff), a detail synonymous with high-end tailoring houses.The overall aesthetic of this blazer places it within the realm of contemporary luxury tailoring, where traditional craftsmanship meets performance-driven textiles. It aligns with brands that prioritize versatility, elegance, and ease of movement, making it a piece that seamlessly integrates into both business and refined casual wardrobes.

Measurements (cm)

Chest: 52

Length: 81

Shoulder: 44

Sleeve: 66

SKU: 005016

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80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
80s, Diolen Double-Weave Twill, Corporate
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