Estate Tweed, Woolmark, Soft Structure, Countrywear

The green tweed sports jacket stands as a hallmark of traditional British countrywear, seamlessly marrying heritage craftsmanship with enduring functionality. Constructed from pure new wool, as denoted by the label’s reference to "Fine Laine Vierge," it epitomizes the durability and refinement expected of mid-to-late 20th-century tailoring. The fabric’s herringbone weave, accentuated by a windowpane overcheck in muted red and brown tones, is a direct nod to estate tweeds favored for outdoor pursuits such as hunting and riding. The rich green base serves a dual purpose, blending into natural landscapes while maintaining an air of aristocratic elegance. A viscose lining, labeled "Futterstoff Viskose," underscores the commitment to both comfort and breathability, ensuring a smooth interior feel that complements the rugged exterior. Every design element speaks to precision and intentionality. The single-breasted, two-button closure is proportioned to maintain a balanced stance, while the structured notch lapels, subtly rolled, hint at a canvas interfacing designed to preserve long-term shape retention. Set-in sleeves, pitched slightly forward, enhance mobility, allowing for a natural arm curvature and improved range of motion. The cut is semi-fitted, shaped through front darts to contour the torso while accommodating layering, a necessity for garments rooted in countrywear traditions. A single back vent further reinforces this functional approach, permitting ease of movement without compromising the jacket’s refined silhouette. Construction techniques are executed with an evident commitment to longevity. The interior welt pockets, reinforced with piped tweed edges, mitigate stress and prevent fraying, while the exterior flap pockets exhibit precise pattern matching—an unmistakable indicator of skilled tailoring. Leather-covered buttons, featured on the front closure and cuffs, enhance the garment’s heritage appeal while reinforcing durability. The four-button cuff detailing, a convention of classic European tailoring, adds a polished finish to the sleeve construction. Inside, bias-bound seams prevent fraying while maintaining the jacket’s structured integrity, and a blind-stitched hem ensures a clean edge, eliminating visible stitch lines that could disrupt the visual harmony of the garment. Pick-stitching along the lapels introduces an element of refined hand-finishing, a subtle but telling marker of craftsmanship. Fabric composition and weave structure define the jacket’s tactile and functional properties. The herringbone weave, distinguished by its alternating V-shaped pattern, introduces both texture and depth, ensuring durability while maintaining an element of visual interest. Comparative analysis places this fabric in alignment with classic British heritage tweeds, drawing parallels to Donegal Tweed’s rugged speckled finish, Harris Tweed’s handwoven complexity, and Estate Tweed’s refined, structured patterning. The wool’s natural lanolin content enhances moisture resistance, fortifying the jacket’s capacity to withstand the elements while remaining breathable. Textile mills of renown—Abraham Moon & Sons, Lovat Mill, Fox Brothers, and Johnstons of Elgin—have long produced fabrics of similar caliber, reinforcing the legacy of British tweed craftsmanship. The lining, composed of 100% viscose, ensures breathability and comfort, offering a plant-derived alternative to silk. This choice prioritizes wearability, providing a non-static interior that allows for ease of motion without compromising structure. In a comparative study, viscose aligns with Bemberg cupro’s fluid drape and breathability, surpassing silk habotai in durability while retaining a luxurious hand feel. High-end textile manufacturers such as Bemberg (Japan), Brunello (Italy), and Bernard Perris (France) continue to set the industry standard for suit linings, ensuring a seamless pairing between inner and outer fabric compositions. Precision extends beyond fabric choice to garment assembly. A half-canvas construction balances flexibility with structural integrity, ensuring the jacket molds to the wearer over time while retaining its crisp shape. Hand-set shoulders create a natural fit, merging structure with mobility, while the padded shoulders enhance the frame, reinforcing a classically masculine silhouette. A fully bagged viscose lining smooths the interior, eliminating unnecessary bulk while improving durability. Reinforced pocket edges strengthen high-wear areas, prolonging the jacket’s lifespan. The tailored fit, structured through the chest with a slight waist taper, is achieved through a multi-panel construction that enhances contouring. Side darts provide additional shaping, while a single-piece back panel ensures a streamlined drape, minimizing seam bulk. Flat-felled seams throughout contribute to both durability and aesthetic refinement, ensuring the garment maintains its form even with prolonged wear. Collar and cuff treatments remain faithful to classic tailoring conventions, with a reinforced undercollar supporting shape retention over time. The four-button cuff configuration underscores its British and European tailoring influences, while the slightly curved hem enhances movement without compromising structure. This jacket embodies the philosophy of heritage craftsmanship and aristocratic outdoor attire. The interplay of subtle check patterns and earthy tones underscores its practical elegance, bridging functionality with timeless refinement. Military and hunting influences persist in the silhouette and fabric choice, reinforcing an aesthetic that is both masculine and assured. The historical lineage of tweed jackets, tracing back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, cements their role as a staple of aristocratic outdoor pursuits. By the mid-20th century, tweed became a symbol of intellectualism and sophistication, embraced by scholars, artists, and country gentlemen alike. Fashion relevance continues to sustain the tweed jacket’s timeless appeal. Reinterpreted by luxury brands such as Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cucinelli, and Drake’s, tweed remains a cornerstone of classic menswear, celebrated for its enduring craftsmanship and slow-fashion ethos. This particular jacket, with its herringbone weave, structured silhouette, and meticulous finishing, stands as a testament to the longevity of well-executed tailoring. Every component, from the reinforced pocket construction to the precise lapel shaping, adheres to the principles of classic menswear, ensuring that it remains a relevant and essential wardrobe staple. Melding functionality with sartorial refinement, this green tweed sports jacket exemplifies an understated elegance that transcends trends, embodying the pinnacle of traditional tailoring and meticulous craftsmanship.

The houndstooth base pattern, overlaid with subtle windowpane lines, is an archetypal expression of British and Italian tailoring traditions. This piece aligns with brands known for refined, heritage-driven menswear that balances formal construction with an air of sartorial ease. Luciano Barbera and Sartorio Napoli stand out for their Italian take on traditional British tailoring, offering softly structured jackets that emphasize comfort without sacrificing polish. The use of high-quality wool, the subtle integration of earthy tones, and the craftsmanship of the check pattern align with Sartorio's philosophy of blending Neapolitan tailoring with classical elegance. The Armoury, which specializes in sophisticated, heritage-inspired menswear, would also produce a blazer of this nature, focusing on timeless styling with an artisanal execution. The interior lining in olive green viscose, along with the hand-sewn buttonholes and delicately stitched pocket detailing, suggests the influence of Henry Poole and Oxxford, both of which are renowned for their meticulous handwork. Henry Poole, one of the original Savile Row tailors, set the standard for structured yet comfortable suiting, while Oxxford, an American equivalent in terms of hand-finishing, is known for precise yet relaxed tailoring that carries Old World charm. Pal Zileri and Corneliani, both Italian tailoring houses, bring an unmistakable softness to their construction, favoring natural shoulders and slightly elongated lapels—features that are subtly present in this garment’s proportioning. Tom Ford, while known for more aggressive, structured silhouettes, often integrates heritage fabrics like this tweed into more contemporary, sharply tailored jackets, albeit with a stronger shoulder line. Domenico Vacca and Paul Stuart both cater to the classic yet slightly modernized gentleman, refining traditional patterns while ensuring a superior fit. The influence of American tailoring—specifically from Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece—can be seen in the balance of the lapel width, button stance, and overall proportions, making it a likely counterpart to many of their designs. Richard Anderson, with his sharp yet fluid Savile Row execution, would similarly offer a blazer in this aesthetic language. Magee, a specialist in Donegal tweeds and classic wool tailoring, has a direct correlation to the fabric choice and subtle color interplay in this garment, as they have long been known for their expertise in heritage British wool designs. Armani Collezioni, while primarily associated with sleek Italian tailoring, has also integrated checked wools into softer constructions, particularly in more relaxed blazer styles. Hackett London, known for its smart, British-inspired menswear, frequently produces jackets with similar tweed compositions, ensuring they remain wearable in both professional and casual settings. Lastly, Lanificio Cerruti, a legendary textile mill and fashion house, has long been at the forefront of developing high-quality wool fabrics for tailoring, meaning that a blazer of this caliber would easily fit within their scope, either in terms of textile production or final design execution. Overall, this blazer is a refined yet relaxed expression of British and Italian tailoring traditions, seamlessly blending elements of Savile Row’s structured precision with Neapolitan ease. The soft shoulder, tweed composition, and rich detailing make it a piece that aligns with heritage brands prioritizing both artisanal craftsmanship and functional elegance.

Measurements (cm)
Chest: 63
Length: 80
Shoulder: 52
Sleeve: 65



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: XL–XXL
EU Men’s Size: 54–56


SKU: 005103