The art of survival.
This vintage tweed sports jacket by Bladen exemplifies the enduring legacy of British tailoring, characterized by structured craftsmanship, fine wool suiting, and a design ethos steeped in tradition. Bladen has long been a cornerstone of English menswear, renowned for its meticulous attention to detail and commitment to high-quality fabrications. The label, which denotes that the jacket was tailored in Supasax wool, signals the use of a proprietary premium textile, recognized for its resilience and distinctive weave. Additionally, the secondary label, “Henry Smith of Doncaster,” suggests that this piece was either commissioned as a private-label garment or retailed through an esteemed menswear outfitter, further reinforcing its heritage-driven appeal. Designed as a classic single-breasted tweed sports jacket, this garment aligns seamlessly with the principles of British country tailoring. Its robust wool fabric, structured silhouette, and Glen plaid pattern establish it as a versatile piece intended for both countryside pursuits and semi-formal urban dressing. The combination of a three-button front closure—an iconic feature of British tailoring—along with slightly rolled lapels, ensures that the jacket maintains a refined aesthetic while allowing for the flexibility of a two-button closure if desired. The structured shoulders and tailored waist contribute to a sharp yet wearable profile, while the presence of two flap pockets, along with an additional ticket pocket, references traditional British sporting and equestrian influences. The construction of this jacket is exemplary, adhering to the rigorous standards of high-end British tailoring. It features full-canvas construction, a hallmark of superior craftsmanship, wherein a floating canvas layer is sewn between the wool outer shell and the lining. This technique enhances both drape and durability, ensuring that the garment conforms to the wearer’s body over time while maintaining its structure. The seams are reinforced with overlocking, and the armholes appear to be hand-sewn—a labor-intensive detail commonly found in bespoke and high-end ready-to-wear tailoring. The back is designed with a single vent, promoting ease of movement while preserving the integrity of the silhouette. The fabric composition further elevates this garment’s quality. The jacket is constructed from a heavyweight, pure new wool tweed, woven in the traditional Glen plaid (or Prince of Wales check) pattern. This weave is a sophisticated variation of a twill structure, featuring alternating bands of light and dark fibers that create a multidimensional grid effect. The earthy palette of brown, green, and beige, accented by fine rust-orange overchecks, underscores its countryside aesthetic, making it both visually engaging and seasonally appropriate. The high-twist wool yarn used in its fabrication enhances both durability and resilience, while maintaining a slightly dry, coarse hand—characteristics indicative of classic British estate tweeds. This particular weave aligns with several notable textile traditions. The Glen check wool pattern traces its origins to Scottish heritage tailoring, often associated with estate hunting jackets. The heavier estate tweed variation, commonly used in British countrywear, offers enhanced protection against the elements while retaining a polished, gentlemanly appearance. The structured Saxony twill wool, originally developed in Germany, provides a refined texture with a crisp drape, reinforcing the garment’s sartorial sophistication. Similarly, the houndstooth twill, a close relative of Glen plaid, shares a comparable aesthetic but is distinguished by its small-scale broken check motif. Several renowned textile mills specialize in producing weaves of comparable caliber. Abraham Moon & Sons, a historic Yorkshire-based mill, is known for crafting premium tweeds and estate checks that adhere to time-honored weaving techniques. Johnstons of Elgin, one of Scotland’s oldest woolen mills, has long produced Glen plaid variations that embody the craftsmanship and durability of traditional Scottish wool tailoring. Holland & Sherry, a prestigious British textile house, is widely respected for its high-twist woolen fabrics, frequently utilized in bespoke suiting. Additionally, Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico has modernized Glen plaid production, offering refined iterations of the pattern in softer, lightweight wools that appeal to contemporary tailoring enthusiasts. The patternmaking and structural execution of this blazer reflect the precision of British tailoring. The three-button front closure is positioned to create a well-balanced drape, while the notch lapels feature a proportioned roll, likely shaped using canvas interlining and steam pressing. The center vent at the back allows for ease of movement while maintaining a structured fit, an essential feature in both formal and sporting jackets. One of the most notable elements of its craftsmanship is the precise pattern alignment, particularly along the back seams and pockets—an indicator of high-level tailoring that requires meticulous cutting and stitching techniques. The interior construction reveals further evidence of thoughtful craftsmanship. The lining, made from a golden-brown cotton sateen or viscose, provides both comfort and breathability, ensuring wearability across different climates. The lapel roll and front panel drape suggest the presence of either a semi-canvassed or fully canvassed interlining, adding longevity and structural integrity to the garment. The shoulder construction is structured yet retains a soft drape, achieved through minimal padding—an approach commonly associated with the English drape-cut style. The set-in sleeves are tailored with high armholes, optimizing mobility without compromising the jacket’s refined silhouette. The sleeve vents feature working buttonholes, also known as surgeon’s cuffs, a hallmark of bespoke and high-end tailoring that signals craftsmanship and attention to detail. The finishing techniques employed throughout the garment reinforce its premium quality. The lining appears to be hand-felled, ensuring a clean interior finish without exposed raw edges. The lapels and pocket flaps are subtly edge-stitched, reinforcing their structure while preserving a polished aesthetic. The buttonholes are neatly finished, potentially hand-stitched, adding a final layer of refinement. The center vent is cleanly reinforced, preventing distortion or fraying over time. Every aspect of this blazer’s construction showcases the commitment to durability and aesthetic precision that defines British tailoring. Bladen’s legacy within British menswear further contextualizes this garment’s historical and market relevance. Rooted in the principles of traditional craftsmanship, the brand has long specialized in high-quality woolen jackets that uphold the standards of English tailoring. This blazer is a quintessential example of mid-century British country tailoring, designed with equestrian, hunting, or sporting events in mind. The fusion of rugged, durable construction with a refined, structured silhouette places it within the enduring canon of classic menswear. Given its pure wool construction and meticulous tailoring, this blazer remains a relevant and desirable piece in the modern menswear landscape. The Glen plaid pattern, characterized by its rich heritage and timeless appeal, has been reinterpreted by contemporary designers and continues to hold a strong presence in heritage menswear. The muted brown, mustard, and forest green tones resonate with earthy, traditional palettes, further reinforcing its versatility in classic menswear styling. Comparable garments are often seen in collections by luxury brands such as Ralph Lauren, Drake’s, and Anderson & Sheppard, reaffirming the lasting influence of English country tailoring. In final assessment, this Bladen tweed sports jacket is a masterfully constructed piece that embodies the pinnacle of British tailoring traditions. Its full-canvas structure, premium wool fabric, and expert finishing techniques reflect time-honored craftsmanship, making it a valuable addition to any collection of fine menswear. The precision of its pattern matching, the structured yet natural shoulder, and the durability of its materials all contribute to its status as an enduring wardrobe staple. Whether appreciated for its historical significance or as a practical, versatile garment, this blazer remains a quintessential example of heritage British tailoring, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts of fine craftsmanship alike.
Anderson & Sheppard is a benchmark in British tailoring, known for its soft, draped construction and high armholes. The jacket in question shares this relaxed yet structured aesthetic, particularly in how the lapels roll gently over the chest. Henry Poole, the inventor of the dinner jacket, emphasizes precise handwork and soft canvassing, which aligns with the structure seen here, particularly the tailored waist shaping and natural shoulders.Huntsman Savile Row is famed for its sharp, structured silhouettes and equestrian-inspired designs. This jacket’s tweed fabric, strong shoulders, and pronounced waist shaping evoke the classic Huntsman look, suitable for countryside wear. Cifonelli, while rooted in Parisian elegance, is known for its structured, precise cut with a high armhole. The attention to fit and finishing on this garment mirrors Cifonelli’s meticulous standards.Dege & Skinner is one of the few remaining fully bespoke houses on Savile Row, with a strong tradition in military tailoring. The structured shoulders, well-defined lapels, and fine wool fabric here are hallmarks of their approach. Gieves & Hawkes, a brand with a long military heritage, also champions structured yet fluid tailoring. The tweed fabric and detailed pocket flaps in this jacket resonate with Gieves & Hawkes' emphasis on heritage sportswear.Edward Sexton, known for his flamboyant yet structured tailoring, favors bold lapels and high armholes. While this jacket has a more understated, traditional aesthetic, its sharp lapels and clear waist suppression reflect Sexton’s precision. Maurice Sedwell, a bespoke tailor famed for technical mastery, creates pieces with impeccable hand-stitching and structured canvassing. The clean lapel roll and beautifully sewn pockets here reflect similar craftsmanship.Chester Barrie, a British tailoring house with roots in both ready-to-wear and bespoke, focuses on structured silhouettes. This jacket’s tweed fabric and fitted waist share similarities with their traditionally English countryside aesthetic. Timothy Everest is a modern tailor who integrates traditional British techniques with contemporary styling. The jacket’s classic cut and structured yet wearable fit echo Everest’s emphasis on timeless suiting.Ede & Ravenscroft, one of the oldest tailors in London, is known for academic and ceremonial robes but also produces high-quality, traditionally cut suits. The clean lines and checked tweed of this piece align with their classic aesthetic. Richard Anderson, a Savile Row house, focuses on traditional yet refined tailoring. The slightly softer lapel roll and structured shoulders seen in this jacket fit their house style.Savile Row Bespoke, a collective representing the highest level of British tailoring, embodies the level of craftsmanship seen in this piece. The hand-stitched details, structured yet natural shoulders, and luxurious wool fabric affirm this garment’s placement within the bespoke tradition. Norton & Sons, a house known for understated elegance and military influences, shares similarities in the sharp cut and structured pockets seen here.Raffaele Caruso is an Italian tailor blending British and Italian craftsmanship. The light structure and emphasis on fit in this jacket reflect Caruso’s ability to modernize heritage tailoring. Finally, Boglioli, while known for soft tailoring, also produces structured tweed jackets with an unpretentious elegance. The refined check pattern and structured but lightweight construction of this garment echo Boglioli’s balance between formal and casual styling.This tweed jacket exemplifies the finest traditions of British tailoring while incorporating nuanced elements that align with select Italian houses. Its detailed construction, balanced silhouette, and luxurious fabric place it firmly within the legacy of these esteemed brands.
