80s, Melange Yarn Herringbone Tweed, High GSM, Alpine

Crafted in 560–600 GSM mélange wool, the shell merges Shetland loft with Biella-grade weave discipline and color modulation.

The Steinbock Sonderanfertigung overcoat, produced for the Viennese department store TLAPA, stands as a paradigmatic example of Central European postwar outerwear—its construction, textile engineering, and structural intelligence all calibrated toward cold-weather protection, civic utility, and formal continuity. Rooted in the Austrian tradition of Alpine tailoring, the garment merges regional textile pragmatism with Germanic precision, producing a coat that operates not only as a weather-resistant shell but also as a symbol of sartorial discipline and restraint. Designed by Steinbock—an Innsbruck-based manufacturer renowned for their Tyrolean-inflected outerwear—this piece exemplifies the brand’s long-standing alignment with refined, climate-specific design codes, leveraging collaborative production models to deliver exclusive, custom garments for Central European institutions like TLAPA. Constructed as a men’s raglan-sleeved overcoat, the silhouette reflects a mid-century balmacaan lineage adapted for urban functionality. The cut maintains an A-line flare with subtle tapering from the underarm to the hem, offering stride ease without compromising the garment’s clean verticality. The use of a two-seam raglan sleeve, set from the neckline and extending to the hem with precise upper arm curvature, provides full mobility while minimizing stress on high-friction zones. Ergonomic shaping around the armscye and back neck ensures articulation without excess bulk, while the convertible point collar—with its short lapel extension and angular notch—retains form even in high-loft wool, a result of internal shaping likely reinforced with canvas or lightweight interfacing. The notched lapel, moderate in gorge height and crisp in roll, echoes the understated sophistication of Germanic cold-weather tailoring during the 1980s. Every aspect of the coat’s engineering reflects high-level construction fluency. The body is assembled with traditional tailoring sequencing: collar first, followed by front-lining preparation, sleeve and underarm integration, then lining and hem finalization via the bagging method. The hidden button placket is executed with exceptional control, demanding dual-layer front construction and precision turning to maintain alignment in thick wool. Angled welt pockets are blind-set into the herringbone weave and stabilized with internal bar tacking or diamond quilting. Internal patch pockets are edge-bound in grosgrain with clean mitered corners, then topstitched into quilted reinforcement zones for added stress resistance—evidence of an industrial finish applied with tailored nuance. Seam finishes exemplify a dual concern for durability and visual clarity. All interior seams are bound with bias-cut grosgrain tape, stitched in a diamond zigzag pattern that is both structurally reinforcing and visually refined. Corners are true miters, not faux-folded, and the hem is cleanly turned with no perceptible bulk—suggesting the integration of eased roll lines or internal hem weighting, a high-difficulty maneuver in heavy wool outerwear. The quilted synthetic lining—used on the upper body—transitions flawlessly into a brushed wool tartan for the lower lining and pocket backs. This hybrid lining system is engineered not only for insulation but also for load distribution and textural contrast, drawing from both Bavarian and Scottish textile traditions. Bias-cut upper lining panels around the shoulder further enhance movement tolerance, a subtle but telling mark of comfort-oriented tailoring. Textile choice plays a decisive role in the coat’s structural logic. The outer shell is a tightly woven woolen herringbone, executed in a 2/2 twill with reversing diagonal ribs to form a sharp chevron pattern. The yarns are heathered mélange—interweaving tones of olive, slate, rust, and grey—to generate depth and chromatic mutability. The hand is medium-weight with a soft halo, suggesting carded wool fibers, potentially lambswool or Shetland-grade. The textile’s composition is likely 85–90% wool with 10–15% synthetic content (polyamide or polyester) to enhance abrasion resistance and structural retention under pressure. Estimated at 560–600 GSM, the cloth is ideally balanced for cold-climate outerwear that must endure high humidity, snowfall, and mechanical stress. Fabric manipulation throughout the garment—particularly at curved seams, placket folds, and grain transitions—reveals no warping, puckering, or distortion, signifying a high level of technical control. Comparatively, this textile aligns with heritage British Isles weaving traditions. Its tonal complexity and loft are reminiscent of Shetland herringbone tweeds, while its structure and precision exceed that of artisanal Harris Tweed. It shares chromatic modulation with Italian Biella-region coatings and parallels the tighter, refined weaves of mills like Fox Brothers or Lanificio Subalpino. Mills such as Magee 1866 and Abraham Moon also serve as credible analogs in terms of yarn blending, pattern integrity, and color layering—though the fabric’s subtle loft and saturation control suggest Northern Italian or high-tier UK mill origin. Pattern drafting and panel configuration are executed with equal intent. Vertical seaming preserves the grainline integrity of the herringbone across the body, collar, and sleeves, while interior dart suppression is replaced by subtle curvature and underlayer tensioning. The back exhibits a center seam with gentle shaping to balance grain control and movement. Front body darts are fully integrated into side seams to prevent disruption of the outer visual plane. The hemline is slightly widened to accommodate stride, yet retains a stable, tailored fall. Sleeve tabs at the cuff are fastened with single-button adjusters, introducing a functional detail without interrupting silhouette continuity. Edge treatments—including folded, pressed, and topstitched finishes—reflect an unwavering focus on longevity, seam clarity, and formal cohesion. The neckline, shoulder roll, and hem all exhibit presswork of the highest order, achieving fluidity without overcompression. From a historical and stylistic standpoint, the garment emerges from a transitional era—likely between 1982 and 1992—when Austrian and German menswear emphasized restrained, enduring design over expressive fluidity. The coat’s architectural shape, neutral palette, and anti-ornamental detailing place it within the legacy of Cold War-era civic formalwear: garments of civic order, psychological steadiness, and material loyalty. Its absence of theatricality and its commitment to thermal and structural integrity align it with the deeper logic of continental tailoring—where every detail, no matter how hidden, must perform a function. This places it at odds with contemporaneous Italian silhouettes of the 1990s, instead reinforcing a regional design lineage rooted in repeatability, responsibility, and resilience. Conceptually, the garment reflects a philosophy of composure under pressure. The herringbone motif, subdued coloration, and internal textural interplay project a masculine elegance grounded in reliability. The diamond quilting and tartan lining introduce layers of textile historicism without showmanship—material choices that elevate function into aesthetic language. This is not a coat designed for spectacle; it is a study in post-functionalist precision, where every stitch honors purpose. Within today’s industry landscape, this overcoat holds deep resonance for brands invested in fabric-first narratives and durable elegance. Its relevance is clearest in the ethos of De Bonne Facture, Lemaire, Kaptain Sunshine, or S.E.H. Kelly—labels that privilege textile integrity, archetypal silhouettes, and understated engineering. As a vintage specimen, it provides a critical reference point for the revival of regional tailoring idioms and cold-climate garment strategies, particularly as contemporary consumers shift toward archive-informed, ecologically aware fashion. The modular interior structure, textile weight, and structural restraint lend themselves to high-literacy collectors and designers seeking continuity between past methodologies and present sensibilities. Technically, the Steinbock Sonderanfertigung for TLAPA exceeds the typical benchmarks for regional tailoring. Its grain-matched herringbone panels, precisely inset quilted linings, reinforced interior pocket structures, and hybrid textile layering elevate it into the upper tier of Central European menswear engineering. Every seam, fold, and fastening mechanism is executed with architectural intent—sustaining the coat’s physical form, thermal function, and conceptual clarity. As both object and artifact, it distills the values of its era: durability without austerity, elegance without flamboyance, utility without compromise.

Measurements (cm):
Chest: 62
Length: 114
Shoulder: 52
Sleeve: 65



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: XL


SKU: 015002