80s, Worsted Flannel, Pinstripe, Structured Drape, Banking Uniform

The pinstripe wool jacket adheres to classic tailoring principles, with a structured silhouette, a strong shoulder line, and balanced proportions across the lapels, pockets, and body. The pinstripe fabric selection aligns with traditional business attire, emphasizing precision, authority, and understated luxury. This single-breasted, two-button blazer is designed for formal settings, featuring a tailored or regular fit that ensures structure while maintaining ease of movement. The notch lapel is cut to a standard width, reinforcing its versatility, while the pocket configuration consists of two flap pockets at the front, a single welt pocket at the chest, and two interior welt pockets, each executed with precise finishing. The double vent at the back enhances mobility, and the fully lined interior, composed of a high-quality synthetic or silk-blend twill, offers smoothness, breathability, and anti-static properties. The button configuration consists of a two-button closure with horn or high-quality plastic buttons and four-button non-functional cuffs. The evenly spaced pinstripes reinforce the jacket’s formal aesthetic, and the contrast between the dark navy base and fine-line stripes suggests an intentional precision in fabric selection, indicative of high-end tailoring. The outer shell is composed of 100% worsted wool, woven in a fine pinstripe pattern. The fabric's worsted composition ensures durability, a crisp finish, and a structured drape, making it ideal for business and formalwear. The underlying construction likely employs either a half-canvas or full-canvas interfacing, contributing to the jacket’s shape retention and drape. The lapel roll is well-formed, likely reinforced with a hand-finished pad stitching technique, a hallmark of high-end tailoring. The dart placement and multi-panel construction contour the body with shaping achieved through precise paneling rather than excessive seams. Pocket construction is executed with reinforced openings—single-welt chest pocket and jetted or double-welt flap pockets at the lower front. The interior welt pockets are seamlessly integrated with the lining, ensuring durability while maintaining a refined, polished finish. The set-in sleeve construction follows a traditional tailoring method, ensuring an anatomically correct armhole fit. Lightweight shoulder pads and sleeve heads reinforce the sleeve cap, creating a structured yet natural shoulder line. The sleeve cuffs likely feature surgeon’s cuffs, a hallmark of traditional bespoke or semi-bespoke tailoring. Inside, the pressed-open seams contribute to a clean construction, while topstitching along the welt pockets and lapel edges secures the shape without disrupting the garment’s refined aesthetic. The side seams and back vents are neatly finished, maintaining the structured silhouette. Patternmaking considerations ensure a precise balance between fit and movement, with the shoulder slope engineered to follow the natural contour of the wearer’s body. The lining pattern is meticulously drafted to minimize fabric stress at key movement points such as the armholes and side seams. The fabric selection and weave contribute significantly to the jacket’s quality and wearability. The worsted wool is woven in a fine twill pattern, enhancing its resilience, smooth finish, and characteristic drape. The pinstripe pattern is woven into the fabric rather than printed, ensuring longevity and crisp definition over time. The fabric weight, likely within the 260-320 g/m² range, positions it as a mid-weight wool suitable for year-round wear. The lining, likely composed of Bemberg (Cupro) or viscose twill, provides breathability, moisture-wicking properties, and a smooth hand feel against the skin. This fabric selection aligns with historical and heritage weaves used in classic suiting, comparable to Huddersfield Twill from Yorkshire, Super 100s-140s worsted wool for fineness, and London Pinstripe Wool, historically favored in banking and professional circles. Notable textile mills specializing in this caliber of worsted wool include Vitale Barberis Canonico, renowned for world-class finishing; Loro Piana, known for ultra-luxury suiting textiles; Fox Brothers, a British mill producing heritage wool fabrics; and Holland & Sherry, recognized for high-count wool and traditional pinstripe patterns. These mills represent the highest standard of suiting fabric production, ensuring the fabric's integrity and longevity. The construction techniques employed in this garment demonstrate expertise in high-end suiting. The lapel roll is structured with reinforcement stitching, ensuring a well-formed, natural drape. The fully welted interior pockets are meticulously aligned with the lining, enhancing durability without adding bulk. The buttonholes, likely hand-sewn, indicate a level of tailoring above standard ready-to-wear production, reinforced for longevity. The double vent construction improves mobility and prevents excessive creasing when seated. The shoulder construction is engineered for a strong yet natural silhouette, while the three-piece front paneling enhances the tailored fit without adding unnecessary volume. The side seams are expertly pressed and sewn, maintaining a flat, clean finish. Attention to detailing extends to the collar, cuffs, and finishing techniques. The standard notched collar incorporates undercollar felt, ensuring shape retention over time. The set-in sleeves are constructed with clean armhole execution, preventing drag lines and ensuring comfort. The seaming, particularly within the lining, is piped for a refined interior finish, preventing fraying and enhancing durability. Edge finishing is meticulously executed with rolled and topstitched edges, lending a polished aesthetic. The neckline is clean-finished at the back collar seam, demonstrating precise pressing and reinforcement. Cuffs feature four-button non-functional detailing, a common trait in ready-to-wear tailoring, while the straight hem is reinforced at the side seams for structural integrity. Beyond construction, the pinstripe suit jacket carries deep historical and psychological associations. The pinstripe has long been a symbol of authority, confidence, and financial power, historically favored by businessmen, bankers, and legal professionals. The fabric pattern originated in the late 19th century as a means of distinguishing different banking institutions. By the 1920s and 1930s, pinstripes became a staple of men’s suiting, later experiencing a revival in the 1980s during the power-dressing era. This blazer aligns with those enduring iterations of the style, balancing classic tailoring proportions with modern wearability. While the corporate dress code has evolved, the pinstripe blazer remains a fixture in both traditional and contemporary wardrobes. High-fashion designers frequently deconstruct classic suiting, but this particular piece stays true to traditional tailoring. Its relevance in both business and high-end menswear positions it as a timeless investment. The presence of a full lining, precision-cut pinstripes, reinforced interior pocket construction, and a structured yet adaptable silhouette underscores its premium quality. The European craftsmanship, likely incorporating a half or full-canvas construction, further enhances its value. This garment is well-suited for luxury resale, appealing to individuals who appreciate classic tailoring executed with the highest degree of precision.

This navy pinstripe suit jacket exemplifies the intersection of traditional tailoring and refined craftsmanship, its execution marked by meticulous construction and a discerning selection of materials. Composed of 100% fine worsted wool, the fabric offers a precise balance of structure and drape, a hallmark of Neapolitan and Savile Row influences. The fully canvassed construction, paired with a smooth, lustrous lining, underscores its adherence to classical suiting principles, akin to the sartorial ethos of Stile Latino and Luciano Barbera, where artisanal precision meets modern fluidity. The garment’s silhouette, simultaneously soft yet defined, reflects the tailoring philosophies of Sartorio Napoli and Chiaia, with lapels and shoulder structures engineered to facilitate movement without compromising formality. The lapel width and gorge positioning align with a tailoring lineage honed by Caraceni and Henry Poole, where proportional refinement and strategic darting ensure a contoured, well-balanced fit. Ambrosi Napoli’s commitment to luxurious wools and impeccable internal finishing is evident in the interior pocket detailing and meticulous edge stitching, which reinforce the jacket’s structural integrity while allowing for a natural break over the chest. The Armoury’s dedication to modern-classic tailoring finds resonance in this jacket’s restrained yet deliberate design, offering an understated international perspective on craftsmanship. Edward Sexton’s signature elongated silhouette, reminiscent of the bold precision of 1970s power tailoring, subtly informs the firm lapel roll and structured presence. Meanwhile, the heritage expertise of Cesare Attolini and Ravazzolo manifests in the precise pinstripe alignment along the seams and the seamless integration of pockets, reinforcing a commitment to aesthetic cohesion and technical execution. Bringing a British-American sensibility to structured formalwear, Gieves & Hawkes and Oxxford underscore the jacket’s deep roots in traditional yet highly wearable suiting. The understated navy pinstripe, an exercise in restrained elegance, aligns with Eidos by Isaia and Kiton’s philosophy of fusing heritage textiles with contemporary silhouettes, ensuring the garment remains both timeless and commanding. Tom Ford’s signature balance of boldness and refinement is subtly echoed in the jacket’s assertive structure and sculpted lapels, further elevating its status within the realm of luxury menswear. At its core, this jacket stands as a testament to the highest standards of sartorial precision, its execution embodying a convergence of masterful tailoring, superior textiles, and an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship. Each detail, from the nuanced lapel curvature to the rigorously calibrated proportions, speaks to a legacy of tradition translated through a contemporary lens—an unmistakable mark of true sartorial excellence.

Measurements (cm)
Chest: 53
Length: 78
Shoulder: 44
Sleeve: 63



Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: M
EU Men’s Size: 48–50


SKU: 005038